Dawn Wall: Je to tam

K tomuhle obrázku asi není kromě gratulace co dodat. První opakování Dawn Wall se podařilo za 9 dní výstupu odspodu po přípravě, která začala před čtyřmi týdny.

Tommy Caldwell a Kevin Jorgeson na cestě pracovali 7 let a jejich final push trval 19 dní. Adam cestu studoval necelé 4 týdny. Srovnávat prvovýstup s opakování se samozřejmě tak úplně nedá, ale i tak je to posun o mocný krok vpřed. Tak velká gratulace!

 

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek), Lis 21, 2016 v 4:01 PST

 

End of pitch #28 . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

Video zveřejněné uživatelem Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek), Lis 21, 2016 v 12:53 PST

Na 5. den nastoupil Adam koncentrovaný a vyklidněný. 14. délku dal na 1. pokus. Po setmění měl velký pád v délce 15 na konci. Byl ale schopný dát ještě jeden pokus a délku 15 tam poslal také. Tím jsou hotové klíčové délky a teď už by to mohl dorazit za den až dva. Po přelezení obou délek už měl kůži na prstech natolik bolestivou, že nešlo pokračovat dál hned a dál pokračoval až druhý den.

Poté přelezl další délky a skončil na Wino Tower, odkud je ještě 11 lehčích délek na vrchol. Kvůli špatné předpovědi už dál nelezli, až dnes ráno. Pokud je to nespláchne, mohli by Dawn Wall dokončit dnes v noci.

 

On cloud nine! It has been magical evening. I was focused and calm. The mindset when climbing is actually fun! Sent the pitch 14 (5.14d) on my first go after a little warm up. Then, after it got dark and having heartbraking fall on the top of pitch 15 (5.14c or d), I could still give it one more shot and send it too. Skin feels to painful to continue tonight, but I will continue tomorrow! Pic by @pavelblazek @blackdiamond @mytendon #montura @lasportivagram @gardatrentino #elcapitan #yosemite #dawnwall

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra), Lis 18, 2016 v 10:39 PST

 

Here is what Adam said about today: Damn! Climbed super poorly, so much pressure, so nervous! Needed 7 tries to make it through the first boulderproblem on pitch 14, a boulderproblem that i never really found very hard before, but somehow felt really hard today. I slipped on my first try, then on my second try, then just freaked out and felt so insecure with my feet trying to climb as carefully as possible but kept slipping nevertheless. Then, on my 7th try, I did the boulderproblem, and fell from the last move. Hard to find some optimism, but I will try it again. Tomorrow and hopefully with better mindset. Thanks everyone for encouragement! I am sorry for today, hopefully there is still the chance. . Image - I think I was fortunate enough to experience quite a lot in my life so far. Good and bad. I've been rock climbing for about 25 years now - surviving 13 metres fall and "just" breaking 3 vertebral disks (lucky I'm still walking), trying my luck with winter expeditions like crossing on foot 650 km long frozen lake Baikal in Siberia - experiencing minus 40 degrees celsius or walking 45 km a day pulling 100 kg sled with food and equipment or hiking unforgiving taiga for weeks in search of former Stalin labor camps - the gulags - getting stuck on slow moving river 200 km from closest setlement on our return journey when the engine in our small boat blew up... . BUT! I have never experienced so much presure, so many scary moments, seen so much pain and frustration as here during the last few weeks. The rock climbing at Adams level is way, way harder than me or I think most of us can even imagine. . The shoes Adam is putting on are 38,5 - his normal hiking shoes are 44! I feel the pain just watching him every time he needs to put them on... . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek), Lis 17, 2016 v 9:45 PST

4. den to nešlo. Psychické bloky a boulder na začátku 14. délky, kterého si Adam původně ani nevšiml, si vyžádal 7 pokusů a když už ho překonal, spadl z posledního kroku 14. délky. Optimismus se ztratil a ani nejlepší lezec světa se nevyhnul chmurám. Ale zítra to zkusí zas a doufejme, že to půjde. Zase narve boty 38,5 na nohu 44 a půjde na to. Už jen dvě nejtěžší délky ho dělí od super úspěchu.

 

Here is what Adam said about today: Damn! Climbed super poorly, so much pressure, so nervous! Needed 7 tries to make it through the first boulderproblem on pitch 14, a boulderproblem that i never really found very hard before, but somehow felt really hard today. I slipped on my first try, then on my second try, then just freaked out and felt so insecure with my feet trying to climb as carefully as possible but kept slipping nevertheless. Then, on my 7th try, I did the boulderproblem, and fell from the last move. Hard to find some optimism, but I will try it again. Tomorrow and hopefully with better mindset. Thanks everyone for encouragement! I am sorry for today, hopefully there is still the chance. . Image - I think I was fortunate enough to experience quite a lot in my life so far. Good and bad. I've been rock climbing for about 25 years now - surviving 13 metres fall and "just" breaking 3 vertebral disks (lucky I'm still walking), trying my luck with winter expeditions like crossing on foot 650 km long frozen lake Baikal in Siberia - experiencing minus 40 degrees celsius or walking 45 km a day pulling 100 kg sled with food and equipment or hiking unforgiving taiga for weeks in search of former Stalin labor camps - the gulags - getting stuck on slow moving river 200 km from closest setlement on our return journey when the engine in our small boat blew up... . BUT! I have never experienced so much presure, so many scary moments, seen so much pain and frustration as here during the last few weeks. The rock climbing at Adams level is way, way harder than me or I think most of us can even imagine. . The shoes Adam is putting on are 38,5 - his normal hiking shoes are 44! I feel the pain just watching him every time he needs to put them on... . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek), Lis 17, 2016 v 9:45 PST

 

Little dyno on the top of pitch 11 (5.13c). Waiting for the late afternoon shade to give pitch 14 (5.14d) a shot and if it works out, keep on going through the pitch 15 (5.14c or d) in the dark. Then it is all opened and depending on how I will feel. Photo Heinz Zak @blackdiamond @mytendon #Montura @lasportivagram #elcapitan #Yosemite #Dawnwall

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra), Lis 17, 2016 v 10:53 PST

Úterý 16. 11:Heinz Zak přinesl po fixech Adamovi čokoládu, ale že si ji musí napřed zasloužit a dát délku 10. To se stalo docela dramaticky na 2. pokus. Pak tu čokoládu dojedl mezi několika nervydrásajícími pokusy na délce 12 na uklidnění nervů. Všechno fungovalo a nyní je zasloužený spánek.

 

Tired but relieved face! Made it up to the start of pitch 14! As @alexhonnold brought some dark chocolate for @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson on their push and it seemed it helped them, Heinz did the same today. But he told me that I must deserve it first:-) And send pitch 10. I did in rather dramatic way on my 2nd go. Then, I almost finished the chocolate while having a few heartbreaking goes on the pitch 12 to calm my nerves. Luckily it all worked out and we are getting deserved sleep. More detailed info on @blackdiamond and @mytendon coming soon #Montura @lasportivagram #elcapitan #yosemite #dawnwall Photo @pavelblazek

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra), Lis 16, 2016 v 12:12 PST

Pondělí 14. 11: Adam vylezl za 6 hodin prvních 9 délek. Nyní se snaží přežít verdro a po 28 hodinách restu zítra vyrazí do 10. délky. Hovoří o tom na dnešním videu.

 

Pitch 6 (5.13c). Amazing stemming corner crux with some laybacking on the top. Photo: #Heinzzak @blackdiamond @mytendon @lasportivagram #Montura #Yosemite #elcapitan #Dawnwall

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra), Lis 14, 2016 v 1:59 PST

Na Instagramu píše, že ve stěně už tak nějak zdomácněl a doufá,m že se to během výstupu načisto nezhorší.  Adama s Pavlem čekají nejpve dva dny horka, ve kterých chtějí vylézt prvních 13 délek, pak restday s deštěm a pak perfektní podmínky pro klíčové délky. Ráno chtějí ulézt co nejvíce, než do stěny udeří slunce. Adama po dobu pobytu vr stěně doprovází promimentní fotograf Hein Zak, autor knihy Rock Stars, která inspirovala i Adama.

O Dawn Wall píše, že je neuvěřitelně hladká a prázdná, je neuvěřitelné, že ji pze vůbec prolézt. Vyjadřuje obrovský respekt Tommymu Caldwellovi a Kevinu Jorgesonovi. Ve stěně se ještě necítí jako doma, ale už mu nepřipadá expozice stěny a nejisté lezení jako problém. Na stěně El Capitanu jsme svědky přerodu Adama Ondry ze skalkaře na skutečného horolezce.

 

Tomorrow going for the push! First two days of heat and climbing the first 13 pitches, then one restday of rain and then perfect conditions for the crux pitches on day 4. Starting tomorrow at 3 AM to get done as many pitches as possible before the remorseless sun hits the wall. @blackdiamond @mytendon #Montura @lasportivagram #yosemite #dawnwall #elcapitan #heinzzak Photo Heinz Zak

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra), Lis 13, 2016 v 12:33 PST

 

Dawn Wall is so smooth and blank. Incredible that it goes. So much respect for @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson ! The longer I have spent on the wall, the less intimidating it feels. Does not feel like home yet, but the exposure and insecurity of climbing cease to be a problem... Hopefully, it will not turn for worse again tomorrow. Anyway, big shout out @jorgverhoeven for crushing Dihedral Wall! Amazing performance in less than ideal conditions!

Fotka zveřejněná uživatelem Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra), Lis 13, 2016 v 12:59 PST